Voice for Peace
Nicely done, no wasted time, clear and concise.. Again well done..
Great video. Thanks
You have to disconnect the wires from the element
Awesome vid man. I'm a complete novice with this kind of stuff, but thanks to your vid I've located the defective element in my water heater. Now I just have to hope and pray that my results mimic yours lol.
Complete. Well done.
good explanation and high quality sound. Thanks
That was a good video, thank you for posting.
Thanks so much for this awesome video!
Do the same numbers apply to other heating elements, like a dishwasher (DW) heating element or would a DW element have diff numbers on the multi-meter? Thanks for all replies.
Thanks Jamie , you made every thing look simple and just tested my elements
Lol hot water heater
Jamie first thing I did was hit the like button, I appreciate you using a volt meter , close to mine made my understanding alot easier
Great video! Thanks! What camera did you use to record this? I like the fish eye lens.
That looks like the wrong size breaker for that heater. 4500 + 4500 = 9000 / 240 = 37.5 so it should be a 40 amp breaker. If both elements come on at the same time it could trip the breaker.
I got about 18 ohms on each element with the breaker off. How do I know which element to replace?
Great video, thanks!
Normally you would remove the 2 wires from the element then test the element itself ..
I guess it’s for electric water heater?
Excellent vid thx
better lighting on essential areas..other thanks gentlemen..better than calling REliance.
Super job and you did indeed get a thumbs-up! Thanks man.
Super helpful. Thank you!
Harbor freight bro 😁😁
Great video. Any suggests on how to remove large amounts of calcium from the water heater itself? I just replaced my bottom element and the bottom of my tank is stuffed with white build up. I live in a hard water area and the tank is only a few years old.
I replaced both elements in elec.water heater next day water was too hot I turned temp from 150 to 125 without tripping my breaker off and today after I used all my hot water it won't heat did I mess something up by not turning elec off. I have reset An tested elements still no hot water
How old is your water heaterOr how long did that element last
Thanks! You saved the day.
thanks….. even I can understand this video!!!ive switched out both elements and the thermostat… STILL no hot water. :/today…. i am going to recheck elements.
thanks…. but it is not the water heater elements or the thermostat. all checked out ok with the multimeter. found out it is the water heater power box….needs replaced :/
My upper element is reading 18 ohms, my lower element is reading 1900 ohms, is there something wrong? I think my lower element is bad.
why will my hot water heater not heat up after both elements and thermostats have Ben changed and there is power going to both of them
Nice !!!WTF !!!FIRST befor you touch anything is TEST THE VOLTAGE !!!NEVER BE SURE THAT THE WIRES ARE CLEAR !!!
Thats why peoples die !!!An elecrician have to learn aboud electric and safety around 4 years !!!Thats why you have to call an Servicetechnican to do that job…
bien claro bueno
Jamie Thanks for sharing, It's reayly nice when homeowners share knowledge like this. It saves people time and money,
Saved me $600, thanks bud…
Well done. Thank you. Time saver.
Informative and helpful video. Thanks! Just an Fyi: Around marker 2:31 you mention that we should see between 10 and 16 oms on the meter's 200 scale across the element's screws. Other sources around the web mention that 10-16 range too. If I'm not incorrect, 10-16 is what you'll see on a working 4500 watt element. If however you have 3500 watt element like my 40 gal Rheem does, a new element will test at 18 ohms exactly. When I first tested my old elements, I was confused why I was seeing 18 on the top element and an open circuit on the (failed) bottom element. After I bought new elements and tested them, that uncertainty was answered.
The takeaway here is that different wattage elements are going to have different normal resistance ranges across the wire hold down screws. Maybe someone more knowledgeable than I can post the ranges here for other people's benefit.
Regards . . .
I had 20 ohms.. Is that a problem..?
very good video
Stop switching them around. Thanks
It's good you buy a new heating element instead of a new tank. I now lots of people that don't fix, just replace.
So costly, wasteful and really hard work for nothing….
Does a bad heating element causes my hot water to reach temperatures above the selected range and cause the heater breaker trip occasionally?
You said the water was "burning hot" which led you to believe something was wrong with the heater. If the element was burned out and the breaker tripped shouldn't the water have been cold? Are you sure that there wasn't a problem with the thermostat sticking on causing the element to fail?
Nice Multimeter….😂 how much you put into it? H.F. freebie….
Well done, clear and easy to follow instructions – thank you.
Thanks for this video. It helped me identify which element was burned out. Thankfully I even have the exact same multimeter so that part was almost dummy proof for me with the help of your video. I did have to go down to the auto store (O’Reilly’s coincidentally) to get a 38mm socket to break the old element loose. The ‘water heater element wrench’ didn’t quite get the job done. Thanks again!
Good stuff thanks
Bottom element, I got a reading of 9.2 l. Does it need to be replced
What if neither element has a reading? My meter is working fine
10 and 16 ohms? Well what about 26 ohms??
Thanks – followed these instructions to figure out which element was bad on our Rheem Fury. Successfully fixed for $15.99
You should be removing the wires connected to the elements before testing. 15-20 ohms is good anything around 10 or below should be changed.
Hey mate. Nice video. Thanks for that. I’ve done as you’ve shown and according to my multi meter, everything is fine however I’ve still got no hot water. Would you be able to point me towards any other possible issues? My water heater is a rheem mpi-325. Cheers.
So I just had a shower and ran out of hot water before I finished my shower.. not an unusually long shower, not any longer than normal. And it was 4am and I was the only one awake so no one else in the house was using the hot water.. so it wasn't that. It's a large stand up hot water heater like you have in this video too, which should easily be more than enough capacity for one person to have a quickish shower. We had a bad connection to one of the elements about 4 months ago and I fixed that and it started working again so I got out there to test it. Both elements are showing continuity, but they're both testing 18~20 ohms.. you said in your video they should be between 10 and 16, so these two are out of range.. should we see about replacing them? Are they probably going to go bad soon?
Thanks man. Needing to do this myself.
Excellent video well explained 👌
Excellent tut.! Can you give me instruction on the dip stick check replacement? I'll check back often.
Disconnect the component (heating element) from the circuit before checking resistance.
Just tested both elements, the meter went nuts, into negative at first, then settles on 12. The other 14. Because it went nuts jumping around , isn't that a sign they are bad too?
Thanks a lot That was very helpful
Absolutely a great video. Thank you.
Isolate the circuit first! Disconnect one wire from the element.
Why not show it when it was connected?
Makes hot water but doesn't come out faucets !!HELP
very helpful clip. quickly dissolved my issue…..thanks.
Finally determined the upper thermostat was bad. Replaced it about 2 hrs ago and now I have hot water!…:D
I'm thinking my element needs replacing. I have set my ohms to the lowest setting at 200 and I'm getting a reading of 00.3 and I'm confused with the decimal. When I check to assure that my multimedia is working, I placed both probes together and got a reading of 00.5Am I suppose to be multiply this to get a greater number or is it really functioning at only 3 tenths? Thank you.
Does it matter if the tank is filled with water could you perform a continuity test , or it should be drained before testing , thank you.
So Jamie, I just installed a recirculator pump and recirculator valve into my hot water system. Now all of a sudden, I got no hot water and my tank doesn't seem to be heating after a couple of hours. I'm going to check the heating elements first thing in the morning. But in retrospect, I think that I made the mistake of powering my water heater before it was completely filled with water and before all air was purged. I guess its called "dry firing." Is this a really quick way to ruin both heating elements almost instantaneously??
Thank you very much! I am new to using multi-meters and new to fixing hot water heaters. You explained everything so well!
What if it's above 16 ohms? Like 21
Thx for vid. Now, my question is related to resistance over described normal range. I have a 3 element 60 gal hw heater. Top reads 16.5, mid 21, bottom 74. What is that supposed to mean?
Be careful with those Harbor Freight Cen-Tech multimeters – I had one that the AC voltage setting stopped working – the DC/ ohm`s , ect still worked – just the AC would not read! Check your meter on a live circuit first!
Well done. This was very helpful! Do you have any videos on determining if your thermostat is faulty?
I'm counfused unless the thermostat is bad shouldn't you disconnect the wires from the element because you going to get continuity regardless..
Thanks this was extremely helpful 👍
Wow I really appreciated this video. Finally someone that was clear, explained the meter. I just smashed the like button. Thank sir. From Clearwater Florida.
The wires have to be off to isolate the circuit… Right? You didn't take the wires off.
Thank u for ur time, much appreciated!!
I'm assuming this water heater is electric being u have 2 heating elements because as far as I know gas units should only have 1.
you dont check from each screw to ground? Amateur!
Great video, thanks. I'm thinking mine is going out. Water is warm, but not hot.What would a failing one read, ohm-wise?
Good video but to check oms you have to disconnect the element test it by itself
Here are some general rules:The bottom is usually the first to go as it does most of the work, hot water but runs out fast= top element, warm water that last a while = bottom element. If element is in water, it is possible to get a false reading, especially if water has a high iron content and element tube is split.
I skipped ahead past the breaker panel and was on the edge of my seat when I seen your fingers nearly touching the wires. Probably lost two years of my life for not watching the start of the video.
What if the heating elements both read 13 something? Thermostat?
You mention that when using the multimeter it doesn't matter which probe to which terminal on the element.When you put the new element in, does it matter which wires go to which terminal on the element?I am about to hook the new one up and after screwing it in….have no idea which way it was originally.
Simple and to the point thank you!
I replaced heating elements and thermostats, there is power. But water heater still not working. Any advice?
Thank you very much for the infomation. Very well done and you have been a huge help. Thank you again.
Ok, so something is tripping the reset button and the water is much hotter than what I have the thermostat (relatively new) set for. Using my meter to test the R of the element and setting my meter to 200ohms, there is .5 ohms showing when touching the probes together. So I assume that when i take a reading, the resistance will show .5 ohms higher than what it really is, correct? If that's true and an element tested at 12.5 ohms, then it is actually 12 and the other is 15.3. Even then, both appear to be in tolerance.
The elements don't show to be shorted.
So I don't know why the water is hotter than the setting, nor why the reset button is tripping.
This video was perfect; both because it used the multimeter I own, and the way you clearly explained it in a way that is easy to grasp. Thanks so much man.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks a lot! Thought I knew what I was doing but wanted to make sure. Nice work on video.
Your water was burning hot?I hope you tested the thermostat too then, because that's more than likely the reason your element burned out!
Thanks man! You made it really easy
see you got yr freebie harbor freight too
Paid $200 for a plumber to come and they didn’t even use a multimeter to check the element. They replaced only the bottom one and left. Not 10 minutes after they left, the breaker go out, again no hot water. Had to wait 3 more days. They came back for second time and the guy just acted like it was going to be yet another $200 to replace the top one without even pulling out a multimeter. Next step I am just replacing the top element and going to take out and test the old one .
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